Indescribable motorcycle riding through Southern China. Today we rode hundreds of sweepers, switchbacks, and hairpin turns through the most spectacular mountain farming scenes, in the middle of rice harvest. We’ve ridden the Alps and spectacular motorcycle roads in the U.S. like the Tail of the Dragon, the Pacific Coast Highway, and the Black Hills, but nothing compares to this place. We are essentially riding in southeast Asia now, closer to Hanoi, Vietnam, than next week’s destination, Hong Kong. The people have their own language and customs, and the architecture is ancient rural Asia. (by David Fick)
Dirt happens to adventure motorcycles in the rain on muddy roads. After today’s amazing riding, they got a much needed bath, the fifth so far on this trip. Pretty much guarantees rain tomorrow. (by David Fick)
A blessed day without rain!
Today was the first in several when we had no rain and dry roads. We had mountain twisties all day. For those who have been to Deal’s Gap, Tennessee, this was like “Tail of the Dragon” for 123 miles. My GPS only registered miles “as the crow flies.” It would show 25 miles to the hotel, we would ride twisties for ten miles, then it would show 27 miles to the hotel. The went on for hours and was infuriating! (by Randy McClanahan)
It was, however, a splendid day for motorcycle riding through the hinterland of China. We saw terraced rice fields from the top down, the bottom up, and everywhere in between. (by Randy McClanahan)
Like corn before, there were spreads of rice drying on the roads everywhere. (by Randy McClanahan)
There were also scores of peasants working in the fields harvesting rice. Others were beating off the husks. I observed NO machinery. It was all done by hand! This is rural China out of a storybook! (by Randy McClanahan)
Beating out rice. (by Janis Cimins)
Although we are only four riding days from our destination, Hong Kong, we are closer to Hanoi. The mountains here look like the news reports I read about Vietnam in High School, and very much like the mountains in Laos, which I have actually ridden. They are completely dense, except for rice farms and villages. (by Randy McClanahan)
We need to be extra careful these next few, and last, days of our journey. I sense that we are getting “barn happy.” Yet every blind corner in these mountains, and there are thousands, is fraught with danger. It could be a landslide, a washout with a several hundred foot drop off, a three-year old child playing in the road, gravel, dirt, a truck or bus — you name it. Today one of our riding couples narrowly escaped a head-on collision with a car. Both were slightly out of their respective lanes, yet making square eye contact at the “oh shit” moment. The motorcycle went down, and the car careened into the mountainside. No one was hurt, but it was a stark reminder to me to slow down and smell the roses! I will surely never be here again! There is no hurry. (by Randy McClanahan)
A village in the clouds!
I was up this morning at 4:30, trying to get some wifi in the hotel lobby, when several Chinese motorcycle riders came into the lobby. It seems they had read a story about our journey, and had ridden all night from their town over one hundred miles away just to meet us! As we tried to communicate in broken Chinese/English, they asked where I was from, and immediately confirmed that USA and China are very good friends. I agreed, and reminded them that their President was in the U.S. even as we spoke. They were well aware of that fact already. (by Randy McClanahan)
Our ride today was short and muddy. The first half was on a goat track that was closed to larger vehicles. Of course, it rained all morning to make it good and slippery. We finally emerged onto pavement, and the second half was a new road that led us to a place in a different time.
The Miao are a Chinese minority with about 9 million members. They have their own language, based on Latin. They worship their ancestors and call upon wizards to drive out evil spirits when there are natural disasters. Their staple is rice, and they are master craftsmen, especially the women at embroidery. Their clothing is very ornate, and they wear lots of silver. (by Randy McClanahan)
Tonight we are staying in the Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village. It is the largest village of Miao in China, and 1000 years old. The village is literally built along the contour of the hills cut by a river. The senior citizens march together and the assemble at a long table to sing the old songs of this nationality. I have been wandering around the wooden-stilted houses and twisting lanes, absorbing their authentic local life. Lamps twinkle in the dark. It is bewitching!(by Randy McClanahan)
Chengyang Bridge
Remember that clean bike from yesterday’s wash? Welcome to China. Gnarly riding today, dropped it once in deep rocks, then knocked over, seemed intentional, by an impatient dump truck in a construction mess. About 120 miles took six hours, mostly dirt, gravel, or potholed roads, and lots of mud and water. That’s what GS bikes are for – a hot dusty day in Southern China ending in a great view of an ancient bridge, beer in hand. Yes, the water wheels do turn and pump water into the rice fields.(by David Fick)
We rode through road construction all day, except for a few moments when we were teased to think we were out of it. I could talk about the ruts, complete blindness caused by dust, mud fields up to your knees, and broken rock climbs that reminded me of Imogene Pass in Colorado. But rather than exaggerate, I’ll just attach a photo. Yesterday we had the bikes washed at a car wash. They did a great job. When we hit the road this morning my bike was cleaner than when I shipped it from Santa Fe many months ago. The pic was taken 25 miles later!
Tonight we are in another ethnic village. Sanjiang Dong village is where three rivers come together in the mountains. Most of the residents here are Dong people. To enter this place you cross a wooden “wind and rain bridge.” It is lined with benches on both sides and residents like to sit there and chat. Take a closer look, however. There are no nails! These are excellent craftsmen, and the building tradition is passed down through the generations ORALLY! Their language is oral. They do not write! (by Randy McClanahan)
Like other such villages, there is a Drum Tower, also constructed without nails. It is a place for social activities and meetings. It is the place where you watch the villagers sing, dance, and practice their age old customs. (by Randy Mclanahan)
Our hotel is a typical Dong house. It is wooden and built on stilts. Dong houses typically have three floors. Due to the humid climate, the first floor is for the domestic animals. The second floor is for living, with bedrooms at both sides and the kitchen in the middle. They have a hard time getting salt, so they eat sticky rice and sour (fermented) meat and veggies. They think sour is better than flavorless! (by Randy McClanahan)
Happy Golden Week!
The Golden Week is a seven day national holiday that began today. About 28 million Chinese travel during this time, a bit like our Thanksgiving. It is to encourage tourism, visits to see family, etc. so we had lots of traffic on the roads today!
We are at the Yangshou River Resort, near Guilin. It is one of the most beautiful places in China. It is best known for its Karst topography, which is caused by the dissolution of soluble rocks. You will recognize it from several movies shot here, most recently “The Nightingale.”
A welcome day off amidst the beautiful Karst Mountains! (by Mike Bozarth)
We’re taking a river tour at 7:00 a.m. tomorrow morning, so hopefully I’ll get a good photo or two to post! (by Randy McClanahan)[/fusion_builder_column/]
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